Style - Women's Wardrobe Basics

Here is a list of what I consider are must-haves in any woman's wardrobe.  Start with a core wardrobe of these basics in a color palette that works for your hair and skin color.  My coloring works best with black, white, grey and camel, so my wardrobe is dominated by basics in these colors, with sweaters and accessories in bright colors.  Most of these items will work for a business casual environment as well as weekend with adjustments to shoes and accessories.

1. White dress shirt: A white dress shirt always feels crisp, efficient, and authoritative to me.  No frills, fancy pleats, blingy buttons, darts, oversized collar, epaulets, etc.  I prefer classic white dress shirts with point collar and barrel cuff, cut not too close to the body, but not too balloony either.   French cuffs are nice but I found they get too dirty too quickly, and most cuffs I see are too large, resulting in a look that is more comical (a la three musketeers) than elegant.  I find stretch shirts sad as the fabrics are usually stiff and/or scratchy, and they look stiff and cheap.  It's worth the effort to find a classic white shirt in a high quality cotton, and then buy four or more to rotate so that you always have this reliable staple in your closet.

2. T- shirts--long and short sleeve: these are workhorses throughout the week.  Look for pima cotton since it is smoother and therefore slightly dressier than regular cotton, and a style that is cut close to the body.  They can go under jackets and sweaters, and are a great foil for necklaces and scarves.  If you can find them in fine knit cashmere, all the better! I also have fine-weave grey and black cashmere t-shirts I found years ago. My new favorites are short- and long-sleeve shirts made by Barneys Private Label for Women in a very fine nylon weave; they weigh nothing and are easy to hand wash and pack. 

3. Black pants: I prefer either cigarette pants (cropped, cut close to the body) or wide-leg pants--nothing in between.  I've never liked trouser cuts as they seem neither trim nor dramatic, but something undecidedly in between.  Besides, they form a straight line from your waist to your feet, which isn't very interesting to me.  Get high-twist wool gabardine, stretch wool crepe, or even a nice tweed (lining is a must) if you live in colder climates.  I have four pairs of the Audrey cut pant from Piazza Sempione in various fabrics; I find most of their line a little old (boxy jackets) and boring for me, but they make GREAT pants.  Piazza Sempione is one of the few Italian labels that still produces all their clothes in Milan (most Italian labels, including Armani, outsource production to cut costs and increase margins).  Their pants are pricey--the wool version of the Audrey pants start around $400, but you will wear them often and forever with proper care.  They also make the Audrey in cotton, denim, and various wools throughout the season, and you can usually find them on sale at the end of each season (albeit in strange colors, like lavender cotton at the end of summer).  If you're small like me, you probably already know to look for European labels as their sizing is still true (a size 0 is really a 0).  Moschino and Prada also make great-fitting pants. 

4. Cardigans: the workhorse in your wardrobe.  You will want both v-necks and crewnecks, shorter and longer lengths, and in as many colors as you are willing to wear.  A crewneck style with simple buttons in cashmere will be more versatile than you think.   Cardigans can provide extra color, cover over a dress or sleeveless shirt, and even serve as a jacket or coat alternative if substantial in both material and design.  Last winter I purchased a very heavy, thick merino wool knit (on sale!) from Barneys women's line which I can sometimes wear as an alternative to a jacket. I also have fine cashmere versions in hot pink, camel, kelly green, red, and the rest of the rainbow.

5. Black pencil skirt: take the time to try as many labels and sizes in order to find the right fit for your body.  The ideal skirt has a waistband no wider than two inches, back vent for ease of walking, and hits the top or middle of your knees. Avoid fancy pleats, seaming details, flares, and the like, as these details will make the skirt less versatile.  Any shorter and you'll be showing more than you want to show when sitting.  Avoid fancy pleats, seaming details, flares, and the like, as these details will make the skirt less versatile. Again, a high twist wool gabardine will serve you well over the years.  Beware of stretch as the stretchy yarns tend to make the fabrics feel more scratchy and the fabric look cheap.

6. Black turtleneck: preferably in fine merino wool or fine cashmere.  A black turtleneck instantly dresses up anything worn with it, and can even impart an Ali-McGraw-esque cool glamour.  Again, avoid frills, waist ties, fancy cuffts, etc. since these details can date an item and prevent you from wearing the item for many years.  I purchased my favorite black merino wool turtleneck at Barneys in Los Angeles over 13 years ago, and with handwashing and de-pilling (more on this later), it still looks as good as new.  At higher price points, Ralph Lauren and Michael Kors make beautiful cashmere and merino turtlenecks every season; J. Crew and Banana Republic offer more wallet-friendly options.

Ralph Lauren Black Label Cashmere Turtleneck, $398, polo.com

7.  A great coat (or two...or three...): if you leave in colder climates, you probably already know that most people will only see you in your coat during the colder months, so while function is important, style matters too.  Of course, you'll only be miserable if you sacrifice warmth for style. A good wool or cashmere blend coat with zip-out lining will work across several seasons in most climates, but in colder climates, down is a must.  Again, try to avoid blingy buttons, ruffles, bows, etc. as these details will look dated over time. 

8. Day jacket: for the months when you don't necessarily need a coat, but do need some coverage during morning and evening hours.  I know trench coats are often mentioned as a must-have item, but I am not partial to them as more often than not they are in the wrong proportions, or have become rather staid, even with the trifling embellishments (ruffles, bows, flaps, etc.) that manufacturers have added over the years.  I prefer a jacket that is more in the style of a Mackintosh as it will provide a great simple line without all the silly embellishments--and no belt to flap around (and lose).  Find one in a neutral color--black, grey, khaki, olive, or even red-- that hits mid-thigh as in a car coat length, as this length will work with both pants and knee-length skirts.  This one from J.Crew is a great color (the red becomes a neutral, but notice how it pops against the camel basics underneath) and most importantly, a great style that is both functional but also speaks volumes through its simplicity:

Mackintosh Kilmany jacket, $950, jcrew.com

9. Shift dress: same guidelines as above apply here: take the time to find a great fitting dress in fine wool or even poly/wool blends that hits at or slightly above the knee, with no frills, fancy seams, buttons, etc.  A blank canvas such as this will be the most flexible for jewelry, day or night, and other colors worn with the dress.  I own an old Armani (about 8-9 years old now, at least) shift dress that fits as if it were custom made for me, and it works for work, cocktail, and anything in between.  This one by Theory is a good example:

Theory Ginela Tweedy Suiting Sheath Dress, $325, bloomindales.com

Make sure the proportions (waist, length) work with your figure and height.  Avoid anything with cap sleeves since unless you look like Darya Torres, the sleeve ends have an uncanny ability to highlight the heaviest part of the arm.  Also make sure the shoulders cover bra straps; there is nothing professional about showing your undergarments.

10.  Scarves, gloves, and hats: if you live in a cold climate, these are staples in warm materials (shearling, cashmere, leather, etc.).  A word about each:

Scarves:  Scarves can add a good dose of color to an otherwise monochromatic wardrobe.  I am fortunate to have a collection of Hermes scarves (several were birthday presents from my husband) that I often add at the last minute because, frankly, it's a very easy (and lazy) way to add color.  I also love Loro Piana men's cashmere scarves because they come in colors that I consider classics. They are pricey but with care will last for years, and because of the quality of the cashmere, never pill.

Gloves: Ever notice how women in the 50s and 60s looked so elegant in suits or dresses with gloves? Most folks now only wear gloves during the winter months, which is a shame.  I have lots of leather gloves with cashmere linings in black, brown, lavender, red, and chartreuse to give a lift of color when worn with coats.  I try to avoid wearing the black pair simply because it's so predictable.

Hats: It's too bad we don't wear hats anymore (even men).  When I lived in San Francisco, there was a store called Cable Car Clothiers in the Financial District that stocked wonderful men's hats from Scottish and British makers. They were very traditional in style, but I loved the heavy tweeds, plaids, and masculine textures. I've tried to get my husband to wear more hats, to no avail. Sigh. 

Style - Great Bags!

I found these Klein canvas tool bags while browsing on Amazon.  They were in the Tools and Home Improvement category, but I am completely taken by their utility, graphic simplicity, and rugged but elegant shapes.  Who knew tools could have such cute housing?

This is my favorite:

Amazon.com, $49.94

but these small canvas zip bags would be great for organizing the small things rattling around in everyone's bags:

Amazon.com, $17.40

Style - Favorite Clothing Designers

Clothes are emotional.  Some items evoke an intensely emotional response--comfort, pride, inspiration, security, courage.  Anyone who does not have an item of clothing or accessory in their wardrobes that evokes an emotional response needs to go shopping!

My favorite designers of all time, in no particular order, some with caveats:

• Marc Jacobs - arguably the most famous and scrutinized designer in the world. He is on this list although I have not liked much of any season since Spring 2008 with the exception of a few pieces from Fall 2010.  I am hoping that he will finally ditch his 70s obsession and make beautiful wearable  clothes again. I forgive him for his 1992 grunge line during his short-lived stint at Perry Ellis. 
• Prada - quirky, intellectual,  luxurious absentminded professor. I will not admit to the number of Prada bags I have :)  Skip the sportswear line and instead pick a few of the less season-identifiable pieces from the runway collections instead. 
• Barneys  - Designed by Martin Grant, the line contains deceptively simple clothes with impeccable tailoring, materials and quality.  The clothes are made to last, in classic styles that will stand the test of trends and time. Their cashmere sweaters are a staple in my closet. 
• The Row - not that the Olsen twins need any more money, but I love this line.  The fabrics, clean lines, and quality of this line make their items work horses in any wardrobe.  Pricey but worth the investment. 
• Celine - with Phoebe Philo.  The thinking woman's designer with many wearable silhouettes, unusual color combinations, and great leathers. 
• Dries Van Noten - no one mixes patterns, colors and proportions like Dries. Beautiful quality and workmanship.  It is no surprise that even with no marketing or advertising, he has built a cult-like following. 
• Jil Sander - The Queen of Minimalism. Jil no longer designs for her namesake line but Raf Simons has taken the label to the next level.  The colors and patterns of the last few seasons are just breathtaking.  
• Reed Krakoff - critics and editors have had mixed reviews for Reed, but I love the severity and strict ideology of his clothes and bags. I hope his line survives the naysayers. 
• Bottega Veneta - quiet luxury.  Their old ad campaign slogan "when your own initials are enough" is certainly fitting.  I am not a fan of the woven leather bags, but the beautiful clothes designed by Tomas Maier make me swoon. They do not show particularly well in photographs or even on hangers; they must be seen in person to be truly appreciated.  I am fortunate enough to have some pieces in my wardrobe and they are among my favorites. 

Style - Wardrobe Guidelines

Over the years several friends and colleagues have ask me for advice on basics they should have in their wardrobes, so I decided to compile a master List of items that I have in my closet that I always turn to when it's time to get dressed.  Focus here is on casual and work wear for a business casual/dressy environment that does not require suits and allows for a certain degree of creative latitude.  I'll start with some guidelines/quasi-rules to follow, and then, on to the List! I'll post a separate accessories list later.

Guideline #1:  buy the best quality you can afford
   This one may be obvious but given the temptation of sales and just the sheer amount of stuff out there, it's a rule that will help you make a better decision.  If it's a basic included on my List, it's definitely worth the time, effort and money you will spend on the item to buy the better fabric, cut and make.   This may or may not mean expensive or designer--but you are more likely to find classic cuts and high quality fibers with some sort of designer name attached and they will be more expensive than most items in your closet. For example,  black narrow leg pants come in many, many fabrics. However, you should buy them in a high twist wool gabardine or stretch wool crepe instead of cotton or polyester since the black cotton will inevitably fade and stretch out over time and polyester tends to get shiny (and not a good shiny, like gold), whereas wool is less likely to do so, and can also be dressed up or down, unlike cotton.

Guideline #2:  know quality when you see (and feel) it
  Wool is better than polyester.  Cashmere is better than acrylic.  Not all cashmeres are equal (more to come on cashmere in the List).  Italian tailors are the best in the world, especially in menswear.  Become familiar with fabrics--how they look, feel, move and wear.  Don't just look at the clothes on the hanger; feel the fabric, examine the stitching, check for a lining.  Good quality items are usually lined (don't get me started with designers with $1,000+ price points that do not line their clothes).  Linings make garments last longer, hang better, and feel and move better on your body.

Guideline #3:  buy what fits, not the number 
  American sizing is absurd; vanity sizing is the new norm.  Add to this the fact that there is no industry standard for any size.  So, buy what fits, not the number on the label.  If a garment pulls, puckers, or the seams are visibly pulling, it's too small.  If a garment hangs, hides your hands, or requires you to hold it up lest it fall to the floor, it's too big.  A good tailor can work miracles, but there are some fit issues that a tailor cannot fix since the problem is that the intrinsic cut of the garment does not fit your body.  Take two consecutive sizes (e.g. 0 and 2, 4 and 6) into the dressing room to try on.  For mass-retailer (e.g. machine-cut) items, it may be worth the time to try on two items of the same size, since machine-cut items can vary quite a bit in measurements depending on the location of the item's pieces were located in the cutting stack.

Guideline #4:  know what you already have 
  This may require you to do some spring cleaning and inventorying of your closet!  Yes it's work but it may also yield some items that you may have forgotten you had (good or bad), and will give you a good idea of what you have, but more importantly, what you need to add.  I like the proportion of 3:1 for tops to bottoms as this should give you many options for seasons as well as occasions.  If you already have lots of tops but no bottoms that are not jeans, then you probably need more bottoms. Caveat here is if the tops you already own are all t-shirts with a band name or graphic on them, you probably need to expand your idea of tops.  If you have twenty skirts and two pants, you could probably use more pants in order to get more mileage from your existing tops.  You get the idea.

Guideline #5:  know your style, know your life 
  Yves Saint Laurent once said, "Fashions fade. Style is eternal." In this quote fashions and trends are interchangeable.  Understanding and developing your personal style is the key to having the right wardrobe for you.  What is style? Style is a consistent expression of who you are with what you wear.  Note the word "consistent." Are you a fan of Holly Golightly, Kate Spade and Oscar de la Renta? Or do you gravitate to Jil Sander, Martin Margiela and Haider Ackerman? Or Levis, Rick Owens and Alaia? You'll recognize your style when you find what makes you most comfortable and projects "you" to the rest of the world.
  Life matters as much as style.  If your style is more old money heiress but you attend more soccer matches than art auctions, then it's hard to run around in a matched brocade suit and gloves.  But it is possible to incorporate your style into your life with the right items.

Guideline #6: mix high/low
  In spite of all the magazine editorials and catalogs that show a single designer from head to toe, including bags and shoes, this is crazy in real life--not necessarily because of cost (which will be an issue if we're talking Bergdorf Goodman-worthy designers) but because you will end up with a lot of items that are unwearable except with the entire ensemble (who dresses like this nowadays anyway?) and because you have now co-opted the style of the a) designer or b) the magazine editor/stylist.  Either way, this defeats the purpose of reading these guidelines!
  So, in order to avoid this style-less void, mix High and Low.  High refers to classic, high quality (hopefully you've read Guideline #1 by this point) basics such as a narrow black pant that is worthy of your wardrobe.  Low refers to casual, mass retail, or everyday items such as a white t-shirt.  I love Gap long-sleeve crew neck t-shirts because they fit really well, are inexpensive, and look good under sweaters or on its own.  The crew neck is also a great foil for big chunky necklaces that I tend to favor.  I also love J. Crew for making great basics that aren't boring in price points and colors that every woman can use in their wardrobe.  Zara's Collection line is also great for suits, fitted trousers and pencil skirts.  Mixing High and Low will give your wardrobe the flexibility you need to make your budget go further.